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Laying engineered wood next to porcelain tiles with a flush joint and no threshold

Laminate flooring in Batumi: subfloor, underlay, gaps

Laying laminate flooring in Batumi costs from 20 ₾ per m²: that is labour, including laying the film and underlay, and you buy the laminate and underlay separately or leave the purchase to us. We lay only on screed that has passed a flatness and moisture check, because on damp concrete laminate lifts at the edges within a few weeks. We recommend it for dry rooms that are aired in winter, and by the balcony door and in the hallway we suggest a different covering.

from 20 ₾/m²labour including laying the film and underlay; laminate and underlay extra. The final price is confirmed once agreed.

  • Timeline: 1–2 days for a bedroom and living room of about 30 m² on dry screed, plus 2 days of acclimatisation before starting
  • Warranty: 2-year warranty on laying the laminate and skirting
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Who it’s for

  • Bedrooms and a living room in an apartment for yourself, where the heating and a dehumidifier run in winter

  • Your old laminate clicks and its joints are opening, and you want it relaid on a prepared base

  • The screed was poured recently, and you need to know when laminate can go on it

  • You want herringbone laminate in the living room instead of parquet, which needs a strict climate by the sea

  • The laminate by the balcony door has swollen: the boards need replacing and the source of the water has to be found

What’s included

  • measuring screed flatness and moisture, with photos of the readings
  • grinding down bumps and filling dips and cracks
  • polyethylene film with taped joints
  • an underlay approved by the range manufacturer
  • a layout with staggered end joints
  • gaps at walls, pipes and columns, pipe collars
  • undercutting door frames to the height of the laminate
  • dividing profiles in doorways and where the floor meets tiles
  • fitting skirting to the wall

Prices: laminate

from 20 ₾/m²

WorkPrice
Laying laminate20–30 ₾/m²
Laminate (material)66–100 ₾/m²
Laying herringbone laminate28–42 ₾/m²
Laminate underlay (material)9–14 ₾/m²
Skirting board installation13–18 ₾/lin. m
Self-levelling floor14–18 ₾/m²
Laminate, parquet or linoleum removal12–18 ₾/m²

labour including laying the film and underlay; laminate and underlay extra. The final price is confirmed once agreed.

Where we lay laminate and which kind we choose

We lay laminate in bedrooms, the living room and a study, if the apartment is lived in all year round and is aired or dehumidified in winter. For the hallway, the kitchen and by the balcony door we recommend click SPC vinyl or porcelain tiles: the floor there is mopped more often, and water from shoes, from under the dishwasher or from the balcony threshold sooner or later gets into the joints between the boards. If you are deciding what to lay in each room, see our comparison of laminate and SPC vinyl.

We use class 32–33 laminate with impregnated click joints. Before laying, the packs lie unopened for two days in the room where the boards will go down.

Screed for laminate: flatness and moisture

Laminate forgives more than glue-down vinyl, but a level difference of more than 2 mm under a two-metre straightedge we correct before laying. On a bump the board rocks, and the joint clicks with every step. We grind down bumps and fill dips and cracks with repair compound, and if the whole room is uneven, we level all of it. If the screed is being poured from scratch, the order of work and the timings are described on the page about new screed and how it dries.

In a new build, what most often ruins laminate is damp screed. A cement layer several centimetres thick takes weeks to dry, and even longer in a closed apartment in winter. For cement screed, laminate instructions usually allow a moisture content of no more than 2% by the carbide method. We measure it at several points, by the external walls and in the middle of the room, and lay the boards once every point is within the limit. In winter a dehumidifier running with the windows closed helps the screed dry out fully.

Vapour barrier and underlay for laminate

On concrete we first lay polyethylene film, which the instructions for almost every range require. We use 200-micron film, laid with an overlap of about 20 cm, with the joints taped and the edges turned up the wall behind the skirting. If the underlay has its own vapour barrier layer, we don't lay separate film, and we tape the underlay joints with tape from the same system.

The underlay itself is dense: extruded polystyrene, polyurethane with a mineral filler, or cork, usually 2–3 mm, unless the range instructions call for something else. A heavy mineral underlay is better at deadening the sound of heels in the room itself. For the neighbours below, a thin underlay helps only a little: the only thing that noticeably cuts footstep noise for them is floor soundproofing under the screed.

How we lay it: layout, gaps, doorways

We work out the layout before starting. The boards usually run along the light from the window, the last row is no narrower than 5 cm, and the end joints in neighbouring rows are staggered by at least 30 cm. A narrow row at the wall and end joints close to each other weaken the floor and catch the eye.

We take the gap at walls, pipes and door frames from the range instructions, and every brand has its own figures. For Kronotex, for example, it is 10 mm on all sides, and without a dividing profile its laminate may be laid up to 12 m along the boards and up to 8 m across them. This manufacturer also asks for doorways between rooms to be separated with a profile. We undercut the door frames with a saw to the height of the board plus underlay, and the laminate goes under them. Skirting is fixed to the wall only.

Herringbone is assembled from two types of board, left and right, working out from the centre line of the room. There is more cutting, and the base has to be flatter, so the work costs more.

What laying laminate flooring in Batumi costs

Laying laminate costs from 20 to 30 ₾ per m². That is the price of the labour: laying the film and underlay, cutting the boards, working around pipes and undercutting the door frames. Materials are paid for separately, and you can buy them yourself or leave it to us, working from a materials list: in our table, laminate costs from 66 ₾ per m² and underlay from 9 ₾. Herringbone costs from 28 to 42 ₾ per m² in labour, because it takes more time and more cutting. We fit skirting from 13 ₾ per linear metre.

If there is an old floor covering, removing the old floor costs from 12 to 18 ₾ per m², and levelling with a self-levelling layer from 14 to 18 ₾ per m² in labour. Small rooms with niches, many doorways and carrying materials up without a lift push the price towards the upper end. The final cost is set after measuring up and agreeing the estimate.

Laying mistakes you can see at inspection

  • the boards were laid on damp screed, and a few weeks later the edges lift, first by the external wall;
  • there is no gap at a pipe or under a door frame, and the floor rises in a hump in the middle of the room;
  • the end joints in neighbouring rows almost line up, and over time the floor opens along that line;
  • the laminate runs tight against the balcony door frame, with no profile and no gap;
  • a long apartment has no profiles in the doorways, and the floor by turns buckles and opens up at the ends of the boards.

At inspection we walk through every room, listen to the joints and look at the end joints in the light from the window. You see the gap at the walls in the photos the site foreman takes around the perimeter before the skirting goes on. By then the report already holds photos of the screed with the moisture meter readings and of the underlay before laying.

Stages and timelines

  1. Screed check

    1 day

    We measure flatness with a straightedge and moisture with a moisture meter, and tap for voids. You get the readings as photos.

  2. Subfloor preparation

    1–2 days

    We grind off bumps with a floor grinder and fill dips and cracks with repair compound.

  3. Acclimatisation

    2 days

    We bring in the laminate after the wet work and leave it, unopened, in the room where it will be laid.

  4. Film, underlay and laying

    1–3 days

    We lay the film and underlay, put down the boards to the layout, undercut the door frames and work around the pipes.

  5. Profiles and skirting

    1 day

    We photograph the gap around the perimeter, fit profiles in the doorways and by the balcony door, and fix the skirting to the wall.

  6. Inspection

    1 day

    We walk through the rooms, listen to the joints and check the board ends and profiles. Any issues go into the certificate in front of you or on a video call.

Local specifics in Batumi

In Batumi, what laminate suffers from most is the change of seasons. In summer the air conditioners in apartments run almost non-stop and dry the air, the boards shrink, and hairline gaps open at their ends. In winter a closed apartment is damp, and the same floor expands. So we don't reduce the gap at the walls for the sake of a slim skirting, and we advise dehumidifying an empty apartment in winter.

New builds often face the sea with large balcony doors, and in a storm slanting rain soaks the threshold. At a door like that we end the laminate with a profile and a gap, and check that water from the balcony drains away from the threshold. The rule is the same at the bathroom door: the porcelain tiles end under the door leaf, and the laminate starts beyond it.

Laminate is often delivered to order, and in the rain the packs easily get wet while they are unloaded at the entrance and carried up. We don't accept wet packs, and we don't let laminate be stored on the balcony or on fresh screed.

Materials and brands

At the budget end it is Kastamonu: its ranges sold in Georgia go from class 31 to 33, and for an apartment we choose 32–33. In the mid-range there are Kronotex and Krono Original from the Swiss Krono group, which Tbilisi shops bring in. Here the brand matters less than the specifications, so for an apartment by the sea we look at the class, the joint impregnation and the density of the core board.

We take the underlay from the list the laminate manufacturer provides: the thickness and stiffness in it are matched to its click joint. We choose skirting that covers the gap at the wall with room to spare. In the hallway MDF skirting can swell from wet cleaning, so there we use polymer skirting.

What makes up the cost

Timeline: 1–2 days for a bedroom and living room of about 30 m² on dry screed, plus 2 days of acclimatisation before starting

  • skirting and profiles are priced separately from the floor area

What raises the cost

  • levelling the screed before laying
  • herringbone or diagonal laying
  • removing old laminate or parquet
  • rooms with niches, columns and pipes
  • voids under the screed that have to be opened up and refilled

What lowers the cost

  • developer's screed that has already passed our check
  • straight laying in regular-shaped rooms

We prepare the exact estimate from measurements and photos. It’s free and comes with no obligation.

Get an estimate

Guarantees

2-year warranty on laying the laminate and skirting. If the joints open or the floor starts clicking because of the base or the installation, we take that area up and lay it again at our own expense. The laminate itself is covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Swelling caused by a leak from the neighbours above or by water left standing on the floor is not covered by the warranty.

Questions and answers

How much does laminate flooring installation cost in Batumi per m²?

Labour costs from 20 to 30 ₾ per m², and that includes laying the film and underlay and laying the boards with cutting. The laminate, underlay and film are materials and are paid for separately: you buy them yourself or leave it to us, working from a materials list with product codes. Herringbone laying costs from 28 to 42 ₾ per m², and fitting skirting from 13 to 18 ₾ per linear metre.

If the screed fails the flatness check, a self-levelling layer is added, and if there is an old covering on the floor, its removal. We send a preliminary estimate from photos within 24 hours on business days, and give the final cost after measuring up and agreeing the estimate.

Why does laminate click and creak after laying?

Most often there is a bump or a dip under it, the board rocks on it, and the joint rubs with every step. Sometimes the underlay is too thick and soft, and the joint flexes on it. Another cause is a floor that is pinned down: skirting nailed to the floor, no gap at a pipe, a heavy wardrobe pressing on the edge.

First we take off the skirting and look at the gaps around the perimeter. If the floor was pinned down, we free it, and the noise often goes away by itself. If the base is to blame, we take the area up from the wall, correct the screed and lay it again.

Can a heavy wardrobe or a kitchen stand on laminate?

A bed, a sofa and a wardrobe on legs are fine, and we stick felt pads under the legs. What you can't do is fix to the floor anything heavy that will stay put for years: a built-in wardrobe with a plinth, a heavy wall unit, a kitchen island. Furniture like that pins down the floating laminate, and the joints open at the other end of the room.

Under a built-in wardrobe we lay a separate section, cut off from the room by a gap under the plinth. We don't screw the bottom track of a sliding wardrobe through the laminate. We don't put a kitchen on laminate at all: by the sink and dishwasher we use porcelain tiles or SPC vinyl.

Which laminate class should I choose for an apartment?

Class 32 is enough for a bedroom, and for the living room, the hallway and an apartment let long-term we use class 33. The class tells you how well the top layer resists wear and impact, and says nothing about water resistance. What protects laminate from water is a dense core board and impregnated joints, and the description of a range states these separately.

A 10–12 mm board sounds duller underfoot than an 8 mm one and copes better with small irregularities in the base, but it stands up to water no better. A bevel along the edges hides a small height difference at the joints, but dirt collects in it, and the floor takes longer to clean.

Can swollen laminate boards by the balcony door be replaced?

Yes, but first we look for where the water came from: under the balcony door threshold, along the frame joint, from the air conditioner drain. If the cause isn't removed, the new boards will swell in the same way.

We take click laminate apart from the nearest wall up to the damaged boards, replace them and put the floor back together. We use spare boards from the same batch. If the range is no longer on sale, we move intact boards from under a wardrobe or a bed to the door, and lay laminate of a similar colour in their place. At the door frame we fit a profile so that the edge of the laminate doesn't sit tight against the door.

Further reading

Photograph the screed and the rooms, and we'll price the laminate within 24 hours on business days

We reply within an hour during business hours. Message us or leave a request: we’ll call you back, go over the details and suggest the next step.

Mon–Fri 10:00–19:00, Sat 11:00–16:00

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