
Mouldings and cornices in Batumi: installation and painting
We install mouldings and cornices in Batumi: ceiling cornices, moulding frames on walls, architraves and cornices with concealed lighting. Labour costs from 15 ₾ per linear metre, and the elements are bought separately. By default we fit polyurethane, and we use plaster only in dry rooms and for restoration. In a new building we glue the cornice to the wall only and make the seam with the ceiling flexible, so that slab deflection doesn't cause a crack.
from 15 ₾/lin. mmoulding and cornice installation per linear metre, elements extra. The final price is confirmed once agreed.
- Timeline: 1–2 days for a cornice around a 15–20 m² room, plus 1–2 days for filling and painting; moulding frames on the walls add 1–2 days
- Warranty: A 2-year warranty on installation, joints and painting
Who it’s for
You are creating a neoclassical interior and need moulding frames on the walls and a cornice at the ceiling
Your resale apartment has old plaster mouldings on the ceiling, and you want to restore them rather than knock them off
In a new build you are worried about a crack where the wall meets the ceiling and want to hide it
Your stretch ceiling is already up, and you need a cornice to cover the profile and the gap
You want concealed lighting around the ceiling perimeter without a multi-level plasterboard ceiling
What’s included
- setting out frames and cornices with a laser level to an agreed layout
- preparing the wall and ceiling: skimming a band, priming, removing dust
- acclimatising the elements in the room and cutting the corners in a mitre box
- fixing with the system adhesive, joints with joint adhesive, plaster with mechanical fixings as well
- filling joints and junctions with acrylic sealant and filler
- a flexible seam between cornice and ceiling in a new build
- a profile for LED strip in the cornice, if lighting is needed
- painting the mouldings in the wall colour or a contrasting one
What we make mouldings from
By default we fit cornices and mouldings in polyurethane: it doesn't absorb water, holds with adhesive alone, without mechanical fixings, and doesn't dent from an accidental knock. We use plaster and polystyrene only on request and only in dry rooms.
| Material | How it behaves | Where we fit it |
|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane | Doesn't absorb water, light, slightly flexible, comes factory-primed | The main material: every room, including kitchens, bathrooms outside the splash zone and new builds |
| Plaster | Heavy and brittle, absorbs moisture, but gives the crispest detail and can be cast to a pattern | Restoring old decoration and custom designs, only in a dry room with good ventilation |
| Polystyrene | Cheap and soft, dents when knocked, coarser detail | At the client's request: a ceiling cornice in a dry room, out of reach of hands |
Fixing with adhesive
We glue mouldings to a prepared surface: skimmed, primed and free of dust. Adhesive won't hold on whitewash or old chalk-based paint, so we strip them in a band where the element will go. The elements spend a day or two in the room where they will be fitted.
Polyurethane goes up on mounting adhesive from the same system as the mouldings. The joints are also coated with joint adhesive: without it, the seam on a long wall opens over time, especially by a window, where the sun heats the cornice. Corners are cut at 45° in a mitre box, or we use ready-made corner pieces. A long cornice is held in place with panel pins while the adhesive sets, and the holes are filled afterwards.
Plaster mouldings go up on gypsum mounting adhesive, and heavy cornices and ceiling roses are also fixed with wall plugs and screws countersunk into the body of the element. Adhesive alone isn't enough for a wide plaster cornice: vibration from a neighbour's hammer drill can make it come away.
A cornice in a new build and under a stretch ceiling
In a new building the floor slab deflects slightly for the first few years, and the junction between wall and ceiling moves. If the cornice is glued to both surfaces, sooner or later a crack will run along one of them. So we glue it only to the wall, and fill the gap between the cornice and the ceiling with a flexible acrylic sealant that is painted along with everything else. If a crack has already appeared under a cornice that was glued to the ceiling as well, we refix it to the wall only and fill the seam with the same sealant.
With a stretch ceiling the rule is the same: the cornice is fixed to the wall and fitted after the film is installed, so that it covers the profile and the service gap. A cornice with a ledge for LED strip gives soft light around the perimeter without a multi-level ceiling. The strip and a place for its power supply go into the lighting plan before installation.
Moulding frames on walls: setting out before gluing
We draw the moulding frames on a wall elevation and transfer them to the wall with a laser level. The setting-out starts from the centre lines of the windows, doors and bed, not from a corner: if the corner is out of plumb, a frame set out from it will run crooked. Sockets and switches have to end up inside a frame or outside it, but not on the line of a moulding, so we check the layout against the electrics.
The height of the lower tier and the spacing between frames are agreed from a sketch. In a small room, slim mouldings and a single cornice are enough, and heavy decoration looks bulky there. How classic and neoclassical interiors cope with the local climate is covered in the section on interior styles.
Filling joints and painting
Once the adhesive is dry, we fill the joints with acrylic sealant or filler, then sand and prime them. Polyurethane is painted with the same water-based paint as the walls. Polystyrene is painted only with water-based paint: the solvent in enamels and some primers eats into it. Plaster is given a deep-penetrating primer before painting, otherwise it absorbs the paint unevenly and the detail goes patchy.
If the mouldings are the same colour as the wall, it is easier to glue them before the final coat and paint the wall and the decoration in one go, and then the join disappears. For a contrasting colour we paint the mouldings separately and run the edge with the wall along masking tape. We agree this order with the crew doing the wall painting.
The cost of mouldings and cornices in Batumi
Moulding and ceiling cornice installation costs from 15 to 24 ₾ per linear metre. This is labour: setting out, cutting, adhesive and filling the joints, while the elements themselves are bought separately. As a guide to materials, polyurethane mouldings cost from 34 to 60 ₾ per metre, and polystyrene ones from 3.5 to 6 ₾. Plaster mouldings cost from 115 to 180 ₾ per linear metre installed, because they go up on adhesive and fixings and are fitted on site. Painting mouldings adds from 10 to 14 ₾ per metre.
The price goes up with frames that have many corners, curved walls and lighting in the cornice. The cheapest option is a straight cornice around the perimeter of a room with no projections. The final cost is set after the site measurement and once the estimate is agreed.
How to check a cornice and frames
We check the cornice and frames with a laser level. The line must run straight even if the ceiling or wall is slightly out of true, and the gap this leaves is filled with sealant and painted over. After painting, the joints can't be seen close up or in side light, the corners meet without a gap, and no element comes away when you run your palm along it.
We leave a couple of whole elements from the same batch in the apartment. The collection may be discontinued in a few years, and a piece of cornice damaged when a wardrobe is installed can then be replaced with the same profile.
Stages and timelines
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Layout and measurement
1 day
We draw the frames and cornices on wall elevations, count the linear metres and corners, and choose the profile from a sample.
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Purchase and acclimatisation
1–2 days
We bring elements from one batch and leave them in the room so that they adjust to its temperature and humidity.
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Preparing the base
1–2 days
We strip whitewash and weak paint in a band where each element will go, skim, prime and transfer the setting-out with a laser.
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Fitting the cornice and mouldings
1–3 days
We glue the cornice to the wall, cut and join the corners, fit the frames, and fix plaster elements with wall plugs as well.
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Filling the joints
1 day
We fill the seams and junctions with sealant, fill the joints and fixing marks, then sand and prime.
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Painting and handover
1–2 days
We paint the mouldings together with the wall or separately in a contrasting colour, and hand over the work after a check with a laser level.
Local specifics in Batumi
In Batumi's humid air, plaster mouldings take up water. In an apartment that stands closed over the winter, the paint on a plaster cornice can blister by spring, and by a window, where condensation runs down, the plaster darkens. That is why we fit plaster only in dry rooms with good ventilation, and use polyurethane in kitchens, bathrooms, glazed balconies and new builds.
If a resale apartment still has its old plaster mouldings, before restoring them we look for where water was getting into the ceiling: a leaking roof, a downpipe or the neighbours above. Until the cause is dealt with, restored plaster will start crumbling again.
In high-rises with panoramic windows, a cornice by the window heats up more in summer than one deeper in the room, and polyurethane lengthens slightly. On such walls we always glue the joints with joint adhesive, and we don't fit short offcuts by the window: the seam goes into a corner or into shadow.
Materials and brands
We choose polyurethane mouldings and cornices from a catalogue with a sample in hand. The same width from different manufacturers gives a different depth of detail, and elements from different collections don't join up in one room.
Plaster mouldings go up on Knauf gypsum mounting adhesive, and in restoration the missing parts are cast in plaster from a mould taken on site. The joints are filled with paintable acrylic sealant. We paint with water-based interior paint, for example Caparol or Chromodomi, in the same tint as the walls if the decoration matches the wall colour.
What makes up the cost
Timeline: 1–2 days for a cornice around a 15–20 m² room, plus 1–2 days for filling and painting; moulding frames on the walls add 1–2 days
- the width and profile of the element: a wide cornice takes longer to fit
What raises the cost
- plaster mouldings: heavy, fixed with adhesive and fixings, and trimmed to fit on site
- moulding frames on walls with many corners
- curved walls, bay windows and columns, where elements are cut into segments
- lighting in the cornice, with a profile and access to the power supply
What lowers the cost
- a straight ceiling cornice around the room perimeter with no projections
- ready-made corner pieces instead of cutting on site
We prepare the exact estimate from measurements and photos. It’s free and comes with no obligation.
Get an estimateGuarantees
A 2-year warranty on installation, joints and painting. If a moulding comes away or a joint opens because of the installation, we refix it and touch up the paint at our own expense. In a new build the flexible seam at the ceiling can open because of slab deflection: we inspect such a seam and tell you the cause before redoing it. The elements themselves carry the manufacturer's warranty.
Questions and answers
How much does moulding installation cost per linear metre in Batumi?
Moulding and ceiling cornice installation costs from 15 to 24 ₾ per linear metre. The price includes setting out, cutting the corners, adhesive and filling the joints, while the elements themselves are bought separately: polyurethane from 34 to 60 ₾ per metre, polystyrene from 3.5 to 6 ₾. Plaster mouldings cost from 115 to 180 ₾ per metre installed, and painting mouldings from 10 to 14 ₾.
The metres are easy to work out from a floor plan: the perimeter of the rooms for the cornice, plus the frames from the sketch. The final cost is set after the site measurement and once the estimate is agreed.
Are mouldings worth it in a short-term rental apartment?
Yes, in moderation. A ceiling cornice doesn't get in guests' way and looks good in photos, while moulding frames on the walls of a corridor and by a dining table soon get knocked by suitcases and chair backs. Where the wall gets bumped, it is better to raise the frames above furniture height or do without them.
For such an apartment we use polyurethane: polystyrene dents at the first knock, and plaster chips. We paint the mouldings with the same washable paint as the walls and leave a tin of the tinted paint, so that a chip can be touched up between bookings.
Can old plaster mouldings be restored?
Usually, yes. First we remove the old layers of paint and whitewash, which blur the detail over time, and tap the mouldings. Loose sections are secured, cracks are opened up and filled with plaster, and chips are rebuilt in place.
If a piece of cornice or ceiling rose is missing, we take a mould from a surviving section and cast the missing element. Then the mouldings get a deep-penetrating primer and are painted. Restoration is priced in the estimate separately from fitting new decoration, by scope, after an inspection.
How do you get cornice lighting without hot spots?
You need a cornice with a ledge for the strip, glued to the wall with a gap below the ceiling. How big a gap is decided on a trial: we put the strip in a piece of cornice, switch it on, hold it against the wall and see where the light ends on the ceiling and whether there are any hot spots. The light goes upwards and spreads across the ceiling, while the strip itself can't be seen from the sofa or the bed.
For this we use a polyurethane cornice: it is light and holds with adhesive, with no fixings into the ceiling. We don't hide the power supply in the cornice. It goes where it can be replaced without dismantling anything, and the cable to the strip is laid before the walls are painted.
How wide should a ceiling cornice be?
We choose the width by the ceiling height and the size of the room. A wide cornice in a bedroom with a low ceiling visually lowers it, while a narrow one gets lost in a large living room. A lit cornice is glued with a gap below the ceiling, and with that gap it takes up more of the wall, which we also allow for.
The easiest check is on site: we hold a piece of cornice or a strip of card of the right width in the corner and look from the sofa or the door. For adjoining rooms we use cornices from one collection: the width can differ, but the pattern is the same, so they don't clash through an open door.
Further reading
Send a photo of the room and an example of the mouldings, and we'll price the work within 24 hours on business days
We reply within an hour during business hours. Message us or leave a request: we’ll call you back, go over the details and suggest the next step.
Mon–Fri 10:00–19:00, Sat 11:00–16:00